ADULTERY

Perhaps one of the hottest topics for discussion at any gathering of whisky enthusiasts is how a given whisky might taste if it were produced slightly differently. i.e. how would an Islay whisky taste if distilled identically but on the main land? How would a whisky taste if any other single aspect such as different stills or different level of malted barely were used? These debates will continue to roll on endlessly until the “experiments” are carried out.

 

René Ramon, a Belgian living in the heart of Speyside has carried out one such experiment with his favourite tipple – Ardbeg.  Ironically, although Ardbeg’s owners have a good right to claim to be the founders of cask finishing, and certainly have led the way with some outstanding finishes for the Glenmorangie; its sister distillery, Ardbeg remains un-tampered, being primarily finished in x-bourbon casks.  The miniscule amount of Ardbeg matured in x-sherry wood that has been released over the past few years has been received with high acclaim. So René set out to see how Ardbeg would react to a few months finishing in an x-port cask.

 

During a visit to South Africa, René seized the opportunity to embark upon his experiment. Purchasing a small 1 gallon (5 litres) barrel, produced from dismantled old wine casks made from French oak, he had the perfect vessel for his experiment.

 

First, Port was added to the barrel and left to infuse the wood for nine months. Once removed it was the turn for the Ardbeg whisky ~ 3 bottles of 10 year old, 1 bottle of Very Young ‘For Discussion’ and 3 bottles of Very Young were blended together with an 8 year old bottling from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. Left to further mature for 10 months in the small barrel René was left to ponder whether the wood or the port would dominate the powerful and distinctive yet fragile taste of the Ardbeg.

 

After five months a sample was nosed and tasted and a distinctive change was taking place, not least in colour.  Confident the whisky could take another five months, it was left in peace under a watchful eye. Finally in October 2006 the whisky was bottled at 51.1% and the verdict drawn.

 

It should be noted that the ADULTERY is not for re-sale but René kindly allowed me a sample while we mused over his next experiment. 

 

According to René’s notes, it has retained maximum flavour while gaining more body and depth. Comparing the ADULTERY to the 10 year old there is a definite richer, fruiter and softer nose. After adding water there is also sweet candy on the nose although it has lost the sweet vanilla for which the 10 year old is renowned.  I would agree with René, that the ADULTERY becomes fuller and rounder with a distinct sherry-ness on the palette. In fact 'ADULTERY' tastes more like Ardbeg's neighbour Lagavulin 'Pedro Xemines' Edition. It has also taken some wood although not to offend the palette. 

 

An interesting, and I would say successful, experiment but my personal preference is still for the UNADULTERATED 10 year old.

 

Additional Tasting Notes from Mark Watt of Duncan Taylor & Co. Ltd. and Georgie Crawford of The Whisky Shop, Dufftown.

 

Colour: Orangey, Rust Gold.

 

Nosing Neat: Initial sweet and creamy nose, typical of Ardbeg, backed up with heavier hints of smoked meats and tar. These are balanced out again with a burnt orange aroma and traces of marzipan and fondant icing.

 

Nosing with Water: An orange cream confectioners filling is now over-powering the darker meatier notes of the whisky neat. With water it 'feels' more relaxed and settled with an almost floral bouquet. A definite jaminess is present also.

 

Tasting Neat: Now starts a quiet attack on the tongue, sending prickles up the sides. Smokey beach bonfires, industrial harbours and chlorine pools at the forefront, quickly the sweetness also comes into play. This has a long, dry and nutty finish, leaving a plume of smoke in the mouth and a hot fizzle on the tongue.

 

Tasting with Water: With water this potential beast is tamed. Although it still has all the hallmarks of this Kildalton giant, the port cask influence has softened and rounded out the flavours. It now tingles rather than prickles, is more fruity than fiery. There is a breadiness, similar to fruit loaf now apparent, but what cannot be disguised is the characteristic Ardbeg ash finish in the mouth.

 

As far as experiments go this is more a VHS than a Betamax.

 

"If this is adultery it's worth getting caught for!"