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All Sweetness and Light

New European regulations may force Whisky distillers to include E numbers on labels, as a result of new rules on production and labelling agreed in Brussels. 

The European Parliament has approved an updated legal definition of whisky, designed to prevent abuse, both at home and overseas, in the production of Scotland’s spirit. The Scotch Whisky Association welcomed the new definitions saying that it reflects traditional practice, making it explicit that ‘whisky cannot be flavoured or sweetened.’   

Article (d) of the new definition states clearly that “Whisky or whiskey shall not be sweetened or flavoured, nor contain any additives other than plain caramel colouring.” Plain caramel colouring is E150 - this permissible additive has been in use for decades as a method of standardising the colour and flavour of big brand whiskies and other drinks. But the colouring, from dark brown to black hue, is made “by controlled heat treatment of sugar beet or sugar cane (with or without the presence of alkalis or acids)”. 

In an apparent contradiction, under the new regulations, sweetenings that are not allowable in whisky appear to share the same production methods as the allowable E150. It states: a sweetening “includes burned sugar, which is the product obtained exclusively from the controlled heating of sucrose without bases, acids or other chemical additives.” The regulations require that if any sweetening is added to the spirit “it shall be indicated on the label, stating the product used for sweetening”. 

A movement started by Scotland’s smaller distillers to market whisky without the addition of E150 has just started to gain acceptance by one or two larger brands. Islay’s Bruichladdich Distillery – the self-styled natural single malt whisky - has never used caramel in their whisky since reopening in 2001. Managing Director Mark Reynier “It’s encouraging that the SWA welcome the new regulations preventing sweetening of whisky, and I assume they include in that the E150 added to most large bottlings.” 

“I fully appreciate the practical necessity for some brands to add E150 for commercial reasons. I suppose, like in Germany, this rule is to make the consumer aware of it. Being a private distiller we prefer our spirit’s natural flavour and we can say to hell with standardisation. But I’d love to know when sugar is not considered a sweetener? It’s an educational thing. The industry has made E150 a commercial necessity, now we have to explain why it isn’t. Cognac learnt that lesson the hard way. As they become more knowledgeable, how long are consumers honestly going to believe that a 10 year old whisky looks exactly the same as a 30 year old?” 

Nick Soper of the SWA said: “the industry will now look at how best to bring forward national rules on Scotch whisky branding and labelling to the European level.”

 

E 150

 

Caramel Colouring

 

Caramel colour successfully mimics a wide spectrum of “natural" colours from natural-looking reds in fruit drinks to every shade and hue of brown. It was first used in brewing (which is still one of its many applications) fortified wines and spirits such as whisky, brandy and sherry.

 

The liquid is highly soluble in water. Varying in colour from brown to black, it smells like burnt sugar.  It is manufactured by the controlled heat treatment of carbohydrates such as glucose syrups, sucrose, invert syrups and dextrose.

 

Generally added in minute quantities, the levels of usage depend on the shade desired.  As well as standardizing batch-to-batch colour variations, it has a few flavour applications - containing flavour compounds similar to those found in chocolate, cooked meats and coffee.

 

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