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Vodka

     in from the Cold

Having been an Eastern European and Scandinavian favourite for centuries,

it’s only since the 1990s that vodka has developed into an international phenomenon, says Ian Wisniewski.

 

Cocktails have become an essential element of

contemporary lifestyle, and as the base for the largest choice of cocktails, vodka has become the most fashionable spirit.

In addition to timeless classics like the Dry Martini and Bloody Mary, vodka has inspired contemporary icons such as the Cosmopolitan, and even an entire genre known as ‘fruit flavoured martinis’. Emerging in the late 1990s, this combines vodka with various fruit flavours served in a martini glass. It’s an irresistible formula that’s become a ‘must have’ on the cocktail circuit.

Although cocktails have been in and out of fashion every decade, the current cocktail revival has already lasted ten years. In fact, the consensus is that cocktails are now here to stay, which guarantees vodka’s continued status as the spirit.

 

Origins

Vodka originated in Poland and Russia, though precisely where, when and how remains uncertain. The knowledge of distilling spirits spread from France and Northern Italy across Europe around the 12th or 13th century, and is likely to have reached Poland first, before proceeding to Russia via Lithuania and the Ukraine. The earliest recorded use of the word ‘vodka’ in Eastern Europe appears on a Polish document, dated 1405.

Meanwhile, the Russian counter-claim is that a special

delegation from Genoa (a centre of distillation) visited a duke in Moscow during the late 14th century. After explaining the finer points of distillation, the first vodka was subsequently distilled in a monastery in Moscow.

Scandinavian mercenaries fighting in European wars took the knowledge of distillation with them when they returned home, and vodkas were produced in Scandinavia from around the 15th century.

At least the Poles and Russians agreed on the name for this spirit, vodka being the diminutive form of ‘woda’, which means water, so vodka literally means ‘little water.’ When this term was coined, in the Middle Ages, using the diminutive form meant it was a more refined version of the original (as drinking water frequently carried various diseases, ‘little water’ definitely was more refined). As the original distillation equipment was inevitably crude, distilling to a high enough strength to rectify (purify) the spirit wasn’t possible. The remaining impurities meant a harsh, hostile vodka, which could only be restrained by infusing various herbs and spices, while honey served as a natural sweetener.

 

Vodka

   

 

This earliest form of vodka was considered medicinal and dispensed like a prescription, in the belief that it would alleviate various ailments. Another belief was that vodka promoted longevity and youthfulness - so it seemed to offer the ultimate range of benefits! It wasn’t until the 16th century that vodka became established as a social drink, and the national spirit of Poland, Russia, Sweden and Finland.

As distillation techniques evolved, the quality of vodka continued to improve. The most important development was the advent of continuous distillation and rectification, in the mid-19th century. This enabled distillers to produce a pure vodka that was smooth enough to enjoy without having to add any extras. Consequently, un-flavoured vodka began to emerge as a separate style.

 

Going International

Having been an Eastern European and Scandinavian favourite for centuries, it’s only since the 1990s that vodka has developed into an international phenomenon. Over the past ten years the category has evolved to offer an incredible range of choice from various countries. This includes the recent launch of Reyka, hailing from Iceland’s first and only vodka distillery.

Vodka has also become increasingly specialised and has undergone a process of gentrification. The choice in Britain was essentially limited to standard domestic brands, until Absolut pioneered the ‘premium’ imported category in the 1990s. In the past few years another level in the hierarchy has emerged, with ‘super-premium’ brands such as Belvedere, Ivan The Terrible, Smirnoff Penka and Ultimat, retailing at £25-£70 a bottle. Consequently, vodka caters for every budget, from the ‘let’s go party’ gang, to the connoisseur crowd.

But despite all these developments, vodka remains undervalued, as even regular vodka drinkers repeat those classic refrains: “all vodka tastes the same,” or “vodka doesn’t taste of anything.” They’re not entirely wrong. This view is based on neutral vodka, the traditional style in Britain (and all of the West), which is a pure, neutral spirit without aroma or flavour.

There’s plenty to savour in Polish, Russian and Scandinavian vodkas, as distillers balance purity with character derived from the ingredients. The choice of ingredient, which is the most influential factor, depends on the country of origin. In Sweden and Russia this means wheat, as in brands such as Absolut, Stolichnaya and Flagship, while barley is behind the Finnish brand Finlandia. The Poles use rye to produce vodkas such as Wyborowa, Belvedere and Smirnoff Penka, with potatoes the basis for Luksusowa.

Moreover, the traditional definition of Western vodkas being neutral no longer applies. Innovative brands

 

 

 

There’s plenty to savour in Polish, Russian

and Scandinavian vodkas, as distillers

balance purity with character derived from

the ingredients.

 

 

 

delivering plenty of character are being produced throughout the West, including Ketel One (Netherlands), Citadelle and Grey Goose (both French), together with New World vodkas such as 42 Below from New Zealand.

There are clear differences between vodkas distilled from different ingredients, with wheat typically delivering creamy aniseed, and barley giving nutty, luscious light spice. Rye gives natural sweetness and nutty, rye bread notes, while potatoes serve up creamy, buttery, mashed potatoes.

But there’s also plenty of individuality among vodkas distilled from the same ingredient. This reflects various factors, including mouthfeel, which varies from delicate to rich and creamy, the degree of sweetness, and

whether the flavour delivery is pronounced or more subtle. Which brands offer the best package depends, of course, on personal preference.

Another recent trend is multi-ingredient vodka, such
as Ultimat, a Polish blend of potato, rye and wheat. And

 

Vodka cocktails

"Vodka is renowned for

purity, and contains a lower level of congeners (the impurities responsible for angovers) than other

spirits"

 

the point of a multi-ingredient vodka is to create a

palate that reflects the individual nuances of the blend.

Promoting

As the vodka market becomes ever more crowded,

brands increasingly promote technical details, such as

the ingredients, to assert their individuality. Another

option is to highlight the distillation method, with Ketel

One, for example, using pot stills, whereas virtually all

vodkas use continuous stills.

Pot stills are the most historic method used to

produce spirits such as Cognac and malt whisky, which

can only be undertaken in individual batches.

Meanwhile, continuous stills can distil on a perpetual

basis, and on a much greater scale.

Technicalities such as the distillation method can

certainly contribute to the marketing of a brand, but

quantifying what they contribute to the flavour is the

real issue. While each distillation method provides

varying opportunities, both can produce superb results.

So, what really matters is the master distiller’s skill: how

the stills are utilised, rather than the actual method.

While technicalities appeal to some vodka drinkers,

others choose brands according to more immediate

criteria: stylish packaging and evocative, lifestyle

advertising.

If the actual vodka is discussed, it is usually limited to

“I like it/don’t like it.” Being aware of ingredients, and

judging the flavour of a brand according to the

ingredient it’s distilled from, is still restricted to

connoisseurs.

But then how many people ever get to the actual

flavour of a vodka ? Sipping neat vodka or a Dry

Martini, which actually showcases a brand’s character,

only accounts for a fraction of total consumption. Most

vodka is served in a cocktail or long drink which makes

it difficult, if not impossible, to discern the brand’s

quality and character. So, supreme mixability is a great

asset, but it can also be a barrier to discovering what

vodka actually offers.

Meanwhile, cocktail culture is only just beginning in

Poland and Russia, where drinking vodka neat remains

the norm. Serving vodka at room temperature is hardly

unusual either. As chilling vodka highlights the

dominant characteristic, while diminishing subtler

nuances, more complex vodkas show their full range at

room temperature.

The Polish/Russian toast, ‘na zdrowie/nazdorovye’

(meaning ‘to your health’) is not simply a polite gesture.

Vodka is renowned for purity, and contains a lower level

of congeners (the impurities responsible for hangovers)

than other spirits. That’s why drinking vodka is regarded

as a ‘guarantee’ against hangovers. This does, of course,

depend on how much you drink. If you get a hangover

don’t blame the vodka: it’s your own fault.

 

Belvedere 40% ABV

Sophisticated, with nutty, rye notes,

light creamy sweetness and an elegant

texture.

£25.99, Selfridges in London,

Birmingham and Manchester

 

 

Finlandia 40% ABV

Ultra-delicate texture, with subtle,

nutty, barley notes garnished with luscious,

light spiciness.

£12.99, Sainsbury’s, Tesco, Morrisons

 

 

Ketel One 40% ABV

Opens up impressively to deliver

plenty of creamy, mouth-filling

aniseed while retaining poise.

£17.99, selected Sainsbury’s, Selfridges

 

 

Luksusowa 40% ABV

Mellow but with plenty of lightly

creamy, mashed potato flavours and

underlying sweetness.

£13.99, Peckham’s in Edinburgh,

Glasgow and Stirling

 

 

Reyk 40% ABV

Distinguished, creamy aniseed

sweetness, with balancing dryness and

underlying grain notes.

£15.99, Gerry’s and Vintage House in

London, Peckham’s in Scotland

 

 

Wyborowa 40% ABV

Elegant though rounded, with a

depth of nutty, rye bread notes

balanced by subtle sweetness.

£13.99, Oddbins

 

Flagship 40% ABV

Lightly creamy texture releases a

depth of aniseed and minty freshness,

with savoury underlying grain.

£12.99, Sainsbury’s

 

 

          

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